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13

High tide had pushed into the inner harbour and the boats tied up along Oxmarket Quay towered over me as I headed south, past a forest of masts and radar grilles and satellite pods.  The clock tower on the town hall could be seen above the steeply pitched roofs and dormer windows.  I skirted piles of lobster creels and great heaps of tangled green fishing net.  Skippers and crew were off loading supplies from vans and four-by-fours on to trawlers and small fishing boats, today nowhere near over before preparations were being made for tomorrow.  Overhead the gulls wheeled endlessly, scraps of white against a clear blue sky, catching the midday sun and calling to the gods.

          At Buckingham Avenue I looked along the length of this pedestrianized street with its ornamental flowerbeds and wrought iron benches.  On a Friday and Saturday night it would be thick with teenagers gathering in groups and cliques

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